Post Number: 69
Votes: 0 (Vote!)
|Posted on Wednesday, April 23, 2003 - 09:19 am: || |
Yes it is very messy. I just put down a heavy drop cloth on the sole and then taped up plastic curtains to isolate the mess to the area I was working on. I also used a sander hooked up to a shop vac to help reduce the mess when I could. I think I did go over the entire roof quickly with a small high speed grinder to get the worst of the gule residue off, that was pretty messy.
In the end I vacummed up what I could and then carfully lowered the curtains onto the drop cloth and then slowly rolled it all up and tossed it out of the boat. Then I gave the entire boat a thourough vacuuming. IN the end there was no sign of the conditon it was in during the repair.
Post Number: 68
Votes: 0 (Vote!)
|Posted on Wednesday, April 23, 2003 - 09:14 am: || |
I have been meaning to put together a nice long article of the rest of my repair. I took lots of photos too.
I am going to have to put that off for a little while more, just can't find the time. But here are some answers to your questions.
I smeared a layer of microlight filled epoxy over the entire coachroof to cover the glue residue and to smooth things out. It is much lighter than the carpet and it is easier to cover the glue residue than to remove it. I did a moderate amount of fairing and sanding to but by no means made it perfect. Then I painted everything with Interlux Premium Yacht Enamel in Hatteras Off White, which a a very close match to the off white used for the head liner and the galley area. I am very happy with it, the boat is much brighter inside. I only did the coach roof in the main galley. At some point I hope to remove the carpet in the V-berth as well.
Post Number: 13
Votes: 0 (Vote!)
|Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2003 - 05:57 pm: || |
Jeff, I am going to rip out the carpet to repair suspected balsa damage like you had. I also just wanted to paint the coachroof. I hate the carpet headliner...and mine is stained to boot.
I was thinking about smearing (troweling) low density west in a peanut butter mixture to slightly fill the weave and make a more presentable surface prior to painting. I don't want to add weight and it is bound to be messy work....and a lot of sanding dust. What did you do and how did it turn out? Also, if you painted it...what did you do to remove the previous adhesive?
Post Number: 53
Votes: 1 (Vote!)
|Posted on Wednesday, April 03, 2002 - 01:42 pm: || |
I know this is not unique to S2 but is a general issue with virtually all boats.
Factorys hardly ever seal the core when they mount hardware on cored decks. It is just a matter of cost.
A responsible owner will periodically rebed hardware and always keep a vigilant eye out for leaks. Even better is to do what the factory didn't do and seal the core arond the fasteners with epoxy so leaks don't turn in to structural problems.
Unfortunately, it seems none of the previous owners of my boat understood the importance of keeping water out of the deck. Not only were all the factory installed fasteners leaking, the things installed by previous owners were leaking worst of all!
I have taken almost everything off my deck. Under every piece of tape there is a hole that was leaking water into the deck.
I have found 7 areas on the coach roof that were completely saturated with water, the inner skins were delaminating and the balsa was rotting.
I cut the inside skin off to expose the balsa and dry it out. I ripped the rotted sections of blasa out completely. After everything was dry I glued up new balsa. I still have to reglass the inner skin.
This is what the inside of my boat looks like now.
I know I have more wet core where the genoa turning blocks were removed and where the Whale pump is installed in the cockpit sole. I am not sure if the side decks are OK or not. A few sections feel a little mushy but I have not inspected them that closely.
I am getting rid of the carpet headliner. I am not sure what I am replacing it with yet, I might just paint it. With the carpetting removed you can see where the balsa has turned dark, a sure sign of water damage.
Once I had an idea of the extent of the damage I drilled into the underside of the deck to examine the core. After I found the extent of the water damage I cut out the inner skin using a Fein Multimaster (outstanding tool for these kinds of repairs).