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Yanmar and engine issues

S2 9.1 Class Bulletin Board » Technical Assistance, Fixes & Advice » Yanmar and engine issues « Previous Next »

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Zack
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Posted on Wednesday, July 29, 2009 - 09:24 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

WANTED: YANMAR 2GM!!
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tod marder
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Username: Galatea

Post Number: 7
Registered: 03-2001

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Posted on Monday, October 24, 2005 - 12:39 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

The advice of Mack Boring/Yanmar is to go with the 30 micron outfit. Buy the Racor filter with the little hand priming pumping attached. This has worked well for our two boats in New Jersey, which race and cruise extensively.

Tod Marder
Galatea #73
Ann and Gary Myer
Magic #4
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Brad Stone
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Username: Bstone

Post Number: 13
Registered: 06-2004

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Posted on Sunday, October 23, 2005 - 11:49 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Greetings... I've got a Lucas primary fuel filter (were these standard??) and am having trouble getting a new element, so I'm thinking of replacing with a Racor. For all who have the Yanmar 2GM, what flow rating do you have or what would you recommend? Would the 15GPH do it, or do I need a 30GPH?

Thanks in advance.
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Mike Bergmann
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Posted on Sunday, November 07, 2004 - 08:35 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Just one word of advice for anyone who is not sure about the exhaust elbow: I thought mine was getting corroded two years ago, so I removed it. I found that it is MUCH easier to remove the entire exhaust system (manifold, coupling, and elbow) as one unit. You can inspect the elbow just as well, and you don't need any big wrenches to get the elbow out. The only thing you need to replace is the exhaust gasket (about $15).

In my case the elbow was in very good condition (I was shocked - my boat has been in salt water for most of its life) so my only cost to inspect was the cost of the gasket.
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Ed and Julie Gully
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Username: Goldenomen

Post Number: 11
Registered: 05-2001

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Posted on Tuesday, November 18, 2003 - 11:25 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Yanmar 2gm part problem; the dealer that I get parts from in Key West has told me that Yanmar has stopped manu. the high-pressure injection pump rebuild parts!!! He could obtain a new injection pump for 600.00 though!!! After rebuilding & cleaning the pump myself and using the old parts ,I was wondering how to extend its life between overhauls? I remember reading in Ocean Navigator about diesel fuel in south & central America, the fuel there don't lube enough. The solution was to add 2 cycle engine oil to the diesel fuel. Not much either, just a couple of oz. in 25 gal. If this helps I will report back . Ed Gully
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William Shirley
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Username: William_shirley

Post Number: 18
Registered: 04-2002

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Posted on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 - 11:53 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

My wife needs to have someone replace the zinc, cause like an idiot, I forgot and now have to go out of town. When I was cleaning the bottom I just about knocked the old one off. I think it is a one inch shaft, but the manual is on the boat....anyone remember? Trying to save her a trip. By the way Jeff, I owe you the source on those washers for the winch...I'll email you this week.

If you could email us shaft dimension at wtsshirley@aol.com we will be much obliged.

Shep Shirley
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Jeff Roy
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Username: Jeffr

Post Number: 85
Registered: 03-2001

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Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 - 07:45 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I replaced the cutlas bearing 2 seasons ago, so it is in good shape. I know the prop needs a rebuild, but I have been thinking I would be happier with a geared folding prop. Only thing is I do not have the money for a new prop. I think Martec will rebuild these for about $200. I saw one that had been rebuilt and it looked like new.

I think if I wanted to really eliminate all my vibrations I would need a new shaft as well as a new/rebuilt prop.

Of course it could all be due to engine alignment. In spite of the fact that all the experts say it is the first thing to do, I have not been able to force myself to re-align the engine. I think I am afraid that if I open that can of worms I will end up buying new motor mounts and a shaft saver and ..... mo money.

Thanks for the inputs.
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Mike Bergmann
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Posted on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 - 07:16 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I have the 2GM 13 with a Martec 14x10 prop. I get 6.4 knots @ 3100 rpm in flat water. If you have vibration, check the cutlass bearing first. If you see what looks like rubber oozing or squeezi9ng out, replace it.

If you have a Martec folding prop as I do, you should also check the prop for wear. In new condition, the blade tips should be prefectly aligned with each other. If the offset between the two tips is more than 1/4 inch, it is about time to rebuild or replace it.

I would like to hear from people about the props they are using. My Martec is now worn out (has been rebuilt once) and I am shopping for a new prop for next year. I am looking at Varifold or Flexofold geared props. These companies are recommending larger props with different pitches. I would be grateful for any experiences others have had with props other than Martec.
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Jeff Roy
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Username: Jeffr

Post Number: 76
Registered: 03-2001

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Posted on Wednesday, June 18, 2003 - 07:10 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

I replaced my mixing elbow this year and my motoring perfromance has improved significantly.

It was clogged with rust pretty badly. The engine sounds noticeably better revs higher and the boat motors much better.

I can now motor at about 6 knots at 2800 rpm. I have pushed it to 6.3 in flat water and about 3000 rpm but I do get some uncomfortable vibration.

I think the next step is to go through the process of aligning my engine. That seems to be the next logical step.
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Loren Thompson

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Posted on Thursday, July 19, 2001 - 12:27 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

We just got back from returning Kahuna(hull 55 and Yanmar 13 HP) from Sturgeon Bay, WS to Chicago 180 miles non-stop. We had boat speeds from 4.8 to 6.7(motor sailing). The waves were flat to 2 ft, Wind was generally 5 - 10 at 30-40 degrees off the nose, we sailed less then 2 hours, and motor sailed less then 4 hours.
Now the main reason for this note- we motored for 28 hours and used about 16 gallons of fuel - a little less then 2 hours per gallon.
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John Stefancik (Jstef)

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Posted on Monday, July 09, 2001 - 02:51 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Jeff,

I can get a speed of 6.3 knots at 2650 rpms on flat water on the Chesapeake Bay. If there is a tide or chop, we can make 5.9, but usually cruise in normal conditions right around 6.0 at 2500.

I suspect you have a smaller propeller (don't take any offense, ha!). But I have seen two 9.1s around Annapolis with very small folding props.

I have a 2 blade (Martec) RH 16x10 folding prop. The cutless bearing was replaced (for the first time I think since '83) in 1997.
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jeffr

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Posted on Monday, July 09, 2001 - 02:38 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Of those of you with the 2GM 13, what kind of cruising speeds can you get in flat and choppy water.

I am a little disappointed in the performance of my engine/prop. I can not cruise anywhere near hull speed. To get up over 4 kt.s the engine gets pretty loud and vibrates A LOT!

I think part of my problem is I need a new cutlas bearing. Most of the vibration seems to be coming from the prop end.

I was really disappointed with the reverse thrust. I know that folding props all are weak in reverse but I was a little scared the first time I came into a dock. If it weren't for a good spring line I would have been in trouble.
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Jerry Salaja (Jerry)

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Posted on Sunday, February 04, 2001 - 08:04 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Scott, My Liberty Cup boat #6 has the lower rated engine in it.
Jerry
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Gary Hendrickson (Garyh)

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Posted on Saturday, February 03, 2001 - 01:02 am:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

A couple years ago when I was shopping for a 9.1, I had 3 boats surveyed and collected info on several more. The earlier hulls had the lower-rated Yanmars, the later ones had higher ratings.

Recently the Mack Boring people (Yanmar east coast distributors) and also my surveyor, confirmed my suspicion -- Yanmar periodically upgrades their engines, and S2 installed whatever was being sold by Yanmar at the time of the build.

S2's initial production had a 13 hp 2GM as the standard engine. In 1984-85 Yanmar redesigned the 2GM to a rating of 16 hp or so. Today Yanmar's 2GM engine is rated a few more hp than that.

The 3GM(F) that was installed in my boat in 1985 (#094) has a rating plate showing 21 hp. Today the successor to that engine is rated about 27 hp.
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Mike Reed (Mreed112)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2001 - 07:49 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

Actually, I believe there were only two 2-cylinder Yanmar engines used. The earlier boats had a 15 HP (1 hour rating and a 13HP continuous rating). Yanmar upsized the 2GM about 1985 to a 18/16 HP rating with similar logic. The larger engine has more displacement but I believe the weights were almost the same. S2 also listed a 3-cylinder 3GM as an option for the 9.1 but I doubt that many were sold. I have gotten outstanding service from my 13/15 HP version in hull #22 since 1984.
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Scott Corder (Commodore)

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Posted on Tuesday, January 30, 2001 - 05:26 pm:   Edit PostDelete PostView Post/Check IPPrint Post   Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)Ban Poster IP (Moderator/Admin only)

(by the Commodore on behalf of someone shopping for a 9.1):
(note: the number before the GM indicates the number of cylinders while the number following the GM indicates the horsepower of the engine)

A 1985 boat I recently looked at had a Yanmar 2GM18F in it. Another boat I looked at this weekend (a 1985 Liberty Cup Boat) has a Yanmar 2GM13 in it. The BucBook only lists 1985 9.1's with a 15 horse Yanmar.

How much variability was there in the engine choices of these boats?

Someone suggested boats intended for sale in the great lakes came with raw water cooled 15's while those intended for salt water came with fresh water cooled 18's. Then I find this boat with a 13. I am guessing they may have put the 13 in the Liberty Cup Boats to keep the weight down?

Looking for members to post any knowledge, thoughts or experience they may have on this issue.

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