| Author | Message | ||
     Scott Corder New member Username: Pastcommodore Post Number: 44 Registered: 02-2001 Rating: N/A |
Gary Hendrickson's insights regarding the keel - stub attachment and fairing are well founded. I'd simply like to add a separate but related observation to this discussion. As most of us know, S2 struggled with flexibility in both the mast step and the entire bilge throughout the life span of the boat's production. The factory's many attempts to correct this problem with various changes in construction have been rather well documented. Those who have been patient enough to read my lengthy posts regarding mast step/bilge repair issues will recall my personal experience replacing a handful of the stringers with stainless steel (versus the original balsa/mahagony). The results on my boat convinced me of the many merits of a stiff bilge. My point is this: Older boats (lower hull numbers) have inherently more flexible bottoms than later hulls. Furthermore, extremely low numbered hulls even had fewer keel bolts than later models. These early boats (like mine hull #2) did not benefit from keel bolts at the extreme fore and aft areas of the keel thus leaving the keel somewhat "cantilvered" at each end. Thus, the flexibility of the bilge, the number of keel bolts and the tighness of the keel bolts all can contribute to ongoing cracking at the keel seam, especially fore and aft. The conclusion drawn by me and my very reputable yard was clear: unless the entire bilge was stiff and stable, and the keel very securely attached - the keel was going to move a little under load - and we could expect at least a small amount of cracking annually. Unfortunately, the slam-dunk solution is not a cheap or easy fix - as it requires stiffening of the all the ribs that support the keel stub. I can report however that, in my case, the rigidity of my totally rebuilt bilge has totally eliminated all cracking on my keel joint for nearly 6 years now. For more reading, see my posts under 'mast step and bilge repair". |
